Brian Farley is the owner and operator of CR Surf Charters.
Every year in January the ”Papagayo Winds” arrive in Guanacastes on cue , as if directed by Spielberg or Scorsese. And for many, heavy winds at the beach and surf are somewhat of an annoyance. But for sport fisherman and surfers the mind races and the pulse quickens in anticipation of this epic part of the summer season here in the dry, sunny northwest territory of Costa Rica. Why? Because the “Papagayo’s” mean great sport fishing and awesome surfing here!
The “Papagayo’s” are an annual meteorological phenomenon caused by colder, high-pressure weather systems that move southward from North America over the Gulf of Mexico and result in strong differentials in atmospheric pressure gradients between the cooler atmosphere over the Gulf of Mexico and the warmer, moister atmosphere over the Pacific Ocean.
This translates to good news for fisherman – and surfers – both here in Guanacaste and along the entire Pacific coast down to the Osa Peninsula in the Southern Zone. But in the windy Northwest, we have to stick closer to shore. White caps, chops and heavy gusts increase in size and velocity the farther offshore one goes fishing. It can get pretty crazy out there!
For some reason, Dorado fish (Mahi Mahi) love the Papgayo winds! Local fisherman believe that the Dorado are attracted to the debris on the water (branches, leaves, fronds, coconuts) that the winds churn up. That’s why I use a cedar plug in these conditions. Dorados – believe it or not – will eat wood! I was out fishing last week and there were plentiful Dorado striking the cedar plug while trolling in this windy chop. We hit a few schools of Dorado up top in the morning and went to the bottom for some Grouper and Red Snapper in the afternoon. It was a great day of fishing.
So it’s a big deal out here when it gets windy. Bottom fish, by definition, more lethargic when the water temp drops – typically in windy conditions like the ones we’re having now. But here in Guanacaste, just the opposite is true. The Papagayo’s make them even more hungry! I can’t explain it. But who cares? Because now is the perfect time to reel them in hook, line and sinker!
And for surfers in Guanacaste, the “Papagayo’s” can be somewhat of a pain, especially if you are traveling via boat en route to your surfing destination. But once you get there, the offshore winds work to your advantage. Offshore winds act as a “Hand from God” that forms the waves into perfect barrels. This is especially true at Ollie’s Point and Witch’s Rock (Roca Bruja) in Parque Nacional Santa Rosa – Costa Rica’s first national park!
Check out the quintessential surf film classic, “The Endless Summer” (1966), and especially, it’s sequel, “Endless Summer 2” (1994), to see exactly what it’s like to surf these destinations in Guanacaste this time of year!
OK… so not the best weather for tanning your cheeks at the beach. But there are some people who live here who already have tans and get completely stoked on the Papagayo winds! I just got back from Ollie’s Point last Thursday, the waves were head high all day long with only one other person in the lineup. Tuanis! Pura vida!




